Top 10 Muck Diving

Muck diving isn't at all tempting, but sometimes the most unexpected places can hold pleasant surprises. And that's what our first dive, on a gravel bottom littered with all sorts of rubbish, trash, and junk, truly was for us. We were just entering the world of muck diving, and it has fascinated us ever since. To understand the origins of this type of diving, we must go back to the 80s and the distant shores of Milne Bay, in southeastern Papua New Guinea. During those years, Bob Halstead was exploring this region with his boat and decided to dive off a black sand beach—now known as Dinah's Beach, in honor of his wife—a type of environment hardly appropriate for a coral reef. But the dive was fascinating, with dozens of creatures never before seen by them and even some species new to science. Muck diving was born, and since then, new and interesting places have been discovered, and this type of diving has gained thousands of followers.

During our years as underwater photographers, we've been fortunate enough to visit this legendary beach several times, as well as many other muck dive sites, some better and some worse. Some pure coral reef destinations feature a pier or beach with specific muck dives, while others can be classified as 100% muck. It's also true that in recent years, "pirates" have proliferated, trying to pass this off as a muck dive, based on a seabed of trash, cans, and an old shoe. After exploring the authentic and fake locations, we're left with 10 genuine locations for fans of this type of diving, all spread across the Indo-Pacific region: Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Papua New Guinea.

LEMBEH (Indonesia)

Without a doubt, it's the world capital of this discipline. The Lembeh Strait is located in North Sulawesi, between the coast of Bitung and Lembeh Island, and was the first destination where a dive operation focused entirely on muck diving was established in 1994. Here you'll find three types of seabed: mud, black sand, and a mixed bottom of gravel and coral. Each offers the chance to encounter different species, each more incredible than the last. You'll witness veritable parades of nudibranchs, unique crustaceans, the Pipa alimeda (a type of snail), and the hairy toad, also known as the Lembeh toad.

MABUL (Malaysia)

Another pioneering destination, though largely overshadowed by the fame of nearby Sipadan Island, diving in Mabul is 90% muck, with extensive areas of fine white silt where a bad fin stroke can ruin photos for the next 40 minutes. We'll also find areas of gravel and two very peculiar spots. On the one hand, the wooden structures, resembling large underwater scaffolding, placed on the seabed off the southeast coast and teeming with all kinds of fish, and an old oil platform moved to these waters to house a resort. Under its pillars, piles of iron and all kinds of debris are found, providing refuge for a wide variety of creatures.

AMBON (Indonesia)

Capital of the Moluccas. This small island is practically split in two by a deep gulf. It's in this area where we'll find some of the best muck diving in the world. The small port of Laha, as well as the various piers of several fish factories, are a must-see to fully understand the meaning of "life in the trash." It's a bit difficult to overcome the apprehension of diving into a seabed littered with fish remains, garbage bags, multiple pieces of waste, and a long list of other things we won't go into detail about, but on the other hand, the concentration of life is striking. In some spots, toadfish swarm, and rhinopias are a common sight, as is the picturesque Ambon scorpionfish.

DUMAGUETE (Philippines)

South of Negros Island, its pristine coastline is formed by a long, dark-sand beach that slopes gently into the clear waters of the Visayas region. Unlike other destinations, the seabed at Dumaguete is remarkably clean; the upper slopes are often covered with patches of small algae, perfect for spotting seahorses, before giving way to areas of gravel and large blocks of hard coral, or to a simple sandy slope at the base of which artificial reefs have been constructed, creating an incredible array of marine life. Robust pipefish and harlequin scorpionfish are often found by the dozens, magnificent cuttlefish are everywhere, and cockatoo fish are less of a concern. It's a perfect place to see crocodile snake eels and pegasus scorpionfish.

BEANGABANG (Indonesia)

This small bay, located south of Pantar Island, is accessible only by cruise. At its edges, we find excellent coral reefs, while the central area is a slope of sand, gravel, and boulders... a seemingly desolate landscape teeming with small life. Coleman shrimp, spearing mantis shrimp, sand conger eels, reptilian snake eels, spiny boxfish... a delight for macro photography. Due to its location, it is often combined with cruises that visit other muck-free areas, but three or four days in Beangaban are highly recommended.

ANILAO (Philippines)

The Anilao area , not to be confused with the city of Anilao (also in the Philippines), is located off Batangas Bay, in southwestern Luzon. It's a clean muck, with gravel, seagrass meadows, and hard coral blocks, but the diversity of species undoubtedly makes it one of the best destinations. From slipper lobsters and biocellate octopuses to comet fish, large and small squid, and nudibranchs, there's something for everyone. A true goldmine for expanding your photographic collection of curious species.

MANADO (Indonesia)

We usually associate Manado with diving in the Bunaken Islands, one of the best coral reefs in North Sulawesi, but the Manado coast is a vast expanse of volcanic sands and mangroves, a perfect breeding ground for species that excel in this type of diving. On a single dive, it's common to find several different species of toadfish, common seahorses, robust pipefish, pegasus, coconut octopus, emperor shrimp, and more. A different take on a traditional destination.

BIMA (Indonesia)

Like other spots in Indonesia, Bima Gulf (Sunbawa Island) is often visited as part of a long-haul cruise. It's an excellent muck diving area, but at the same time an unknown destination, as many boats take their divers to the outer reefs and miss the opportunity to venture into the gulf (especially the eastern slope). Blue-ringed octopuses and cockatoo fish share territory with the most colorful nudibranchs, the most unusual crustaceans, and juveniles of many of the fish species we routinely see on the reef.

BANDA NEIRA (Indonesia)

The tiny harbor of this town is usually a stopover point for diving cruises crossing the Banda Sea, but in the past it was an important enclave for the Dutch East India Company, as evidenced by the countless pieces of finely decorated 18th-century pottery scattered underwater around the pier. But this centuries-old trash is also accompanied by soda cans, fruit scraps, fish offal, and all sorts of waste, earning it the accolade of "2nd Dirtiest Destination"… after the incomparable Ambon. But the amount of trash is directly proportional to the amount of life, and the dives become an endless parade of creatures. And among all these strange beings, dozens of mandarins, day and night, something truly unique. Endless dives at 5 meters deep. Any other destination.

MILNE BAY (Papua New Guinea)

This destination is actually 85% coral reef, but even if it's just to dive at Dinah's Beach, the birthplace of it all, it's worth a visit. A steep slope of fine black sand, with a few palm trunks rotting at the bottom, is the territory where all the inhabitants of the muck circulate. But Milne Bay isn't the only place to be; on every beach or near every mangrove swamp, we'll also find similar places, perfect territory for muck... and also for saltwater crocodiles.

We've always wondered what led Bob Halstead to dive the first time in a place seemingly so inhospitable and unsuitable for diving, but I fully understand what made him do the second dive.